Installing an in line protech condensation vent pipe
We installed one of these condensation drain pipes today. It took the manufacturer almost 4 weeks to ship it to us which is ridiculous. Installing it was a piece of cake except for the tube. The pipe requires a plastic 5/8″ flexible tube to drain off the condensation. It must be looped to create a vacuum. We then had to route the tube over to the a/c’s 3/4″ drain line and T into it.
Proper Venting for a gas tankless hot water heater
Unlike conventional hot water heaters, gas tankless units generate a significant amount of exhaust and heat to instantly heat up your hot water. To do this safely the units require stainless steel piping which is single walled and either 4″ or 5″. This is in contrast to the conventional units which use a 3″ double walled galvanized pipe. The stainless piping is quite a bit more expensive, usually costing around $200 for a typical installation. But this go much higher depending on how far you have to vent the unit. There a a few key components these units require and if you forget to order them then you will slow your installation down.
- The appliance adaptor: the first piece put on over the unit to properly adapt it to the pipe, this part must be compatible with the type of tankless unit being purchased
- 3 or 4″ piping in stainless steel: make sure the diameter is correct for your unit
- Condensation collector: this piece collects condensation in the vent pipe and reduces corrosion of the unit, these must be installed inline or the venting must turn 90 degrees into the condensation catch and then vent vertically through the roof
- Roof Kit: this kit contains the rook jack, rain collar and cap. It is available for steep, standard or flat roofs.
While the venting is not hard, you need to make sure that the pipe is plumb up and down and there is at least a 1″ space around the vent pipe where it pierces the roof. No wood or other materials should come into contact with the vent piping because of the extremely high temperatures.
Code Requirements for a Tankless Hot Water Heater
While having a Takagi Unit installed in the attic recently there was a debate about code issues with installing these units. The question specifically detailed the water plumbing to and from the unit itself. I assumed the code requirements were the same as a standard Hot Water heater. Turned out I was right. There are newer isolation valves on the market that can turn off and drain out the unit from both the cold feed and the hot feed. THese are great for maintenance but are not mandatory in the 2006 Residental Code Book. It simply states that a 3/4″ water line must feed the unit with a ball valve to cut off the supply. It also states the a T/P overflow valve must be connected on the hot supply side of the unit as close to the unit as possible. The T/P must also connect into a 3/4″ line that runs to the outside of the house in the event the valve is opened.
A few other tips are that the gas line needs to be 3/4″ and have a ball valve. You can use a flexible gas hose to tie the line into the unit.
If the unit requires electric then you must be able to unplug or switch the unit off. I prefer a switch since it is simpler to turn off and on as needed. Make sure and label it so people don’t just flip it off.
Keep in mind that the venting must be stainless steel and will require a condensation drain for the water that accumulates inside the steel pipe when it is cooling after use.
Installation of Takagi TK3 unit in attic
We installed a Takagi TK3 in an attic today. For an attic installation it went very smoothly. There was plenty of clearance and the old hot water heater had 3/4 gas and water lines coming to it. All we had to do was remove the old unit and build a 2×4 structure to mount the Takagi Tk3 onto. Then we cut the water pipes down from the old height to the lower level where the takagi is now mounted. The gas was a piece of cake. We still have 2 thing to do. We need to run electric on a switch to the unit and install the stainless steel venting which has not come in the mail yet. Total time I would estimate to be 5 hours for 2 people. I would recommend for anyone installing one of these units that they use flexible copper lines for ease of installation and build your t/p “T” joint out of copper downstairs along with the cold water valve set up. That way when you are in the attic you only have to hook up the old lines to the new lines. Saves time in the heat
.
Stiebel Tempra 24 Electric Tankless Hot Water Heater
We recently installed one of these during our bathroom remodel. It was relatively easy to install, but required 6/3 wire run in a pair. The left side of the unit requires a ground but the right side does not. 50 feet of this wire cost over $120. The client also purchased a high end control valve to cut the water off and on at the unit.
These units are the size of a briefcase and cost around $700 on the street. The key to remember is the breaker box most have room and at least 200 Amps of power. This unit pulls 100Amps at some points to heat water quickly.
Of course one of the nice things about these units is that you don’t have to vent them out. They can be placed in a small space also.
Tankless Water Heaters
Tankless water heaters have several advantages over conventional hot water heaters. The biggest advantage is the cost of running these units. They tend to run 85% + efficiency rating. This means a decent drop in your monthly gas bill. The tankless units do not heat water until the faucet in the house is turned on. Thus, instant hot water is created. The savings with these units is usually a couple of hundred dollars a year.
The second advantage with tankless hot water heater units is the space savings. These units tend to be about the size of a traveling suitcase and can be wall mounted just about anywhere.
The gas versions have special requirements with stainless steel venting which can be quite expensive and this needs to be kept in mind when budgeting for these units. The biggest issue with the units is the cost to swap out from a conventional hot water heater to a tankless unit. There are 3 big concerns that have to be addressed. The gas line usually has to be upgraded from 1/2″ to 3/4″. This usually can cost several hundreds of dollars. Many units require an electric line with a switch which adds a couple of hundred dollars to the cost. The third item is the venting. Standard hot water heaters use a 3″ double walled pipe. Most of the instant tankless hot water heater units use 4 or 5″ stainless steel single walled pipes. Z-flex is one brand and can add a few hundred dollars to the price. The gas units themselves to to run between $700 and $1200.